Dollar Tree eraser - review

I was generously sent this eraser and asked to do an honest review of it.  It came from dollar tree (cost $1.00).  Apparently it comes in many different designs. This one happens to be a sweet cake of some kind.

Close up of the front

This is the back of the eraser.  As you can see it will need work before carving.

I used Acetone to remove the writing - the painted cake is on the other side.  You can see eraser left overs from rubbing the material.  I was hoping this was just from treating the material with acetone to remove the writing. That was not the case.  I dealt with those the entire carve.

To finally get a smooth crumb free area.  I took a rag with acetone and laid it over the top and gently wiped the material. This took a few minutes.

After letting the material sit until it was no longer wet or tacky (30 min.) I transferred an image using acetone.  I did not dare try anything else as I finally have a clean area.

Ready to carve

I started off with a 1v gouge around the outside.  It was a "getting a feel for the material."  I also started with an exacto knife.  The knife did not cut this material well at all.  The eraser does not have a constant consistency to it.  I found hard areas in the block. You can see on the picture that there are jagged cuts where the blade went around something in the material.

I grabbed the gouge.  I tried to show some markings in the material.  In some areas the gouge slid right through, but in others it skipped. 

Here is the printed stamp.  It you can really see the jump marks and issues right away.

Personally this is a terrible carve for me and I am embarrassed that I could not get a cleaned cut not matter how hard I tried.  It is extremely rubbery.

Summary:

You can carve this material.  This would be a great block to learn your tools on as long as you eventually move to aother.  I have been carving both wood and rubber for over 10 years and struggled to get clean lines.  My fear would be that if someone stayed on this material they might get discouraged that their carvings are not getting better.

This material will hold up well in the heat.


This material might be good to make background shadows for LTCs as it hold ink well.

1 PC Multicolor Color Layer Rubber Stamp Carving Blocks For DIY Own Stamps - review

Here is where I purchased the block:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360720685534?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&var=630151075442&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The block is approximately 4x6

Transferred an image easily with acetone.

The outer layers are thin. Here is a simple cut with a bit more pressure and you can see the yellow layer.

Here is knife cutting.  The center is soft - I poked at it with the tip of my blade.  A few pokes and it chewed up the center quickly.

Used a box cutter on the outer edges.

Finished cutting the image down.

Final stamp

I did not like this for knife cutting at first. Felt like the blade would grab and the material pull.  It did not do that to the rubber.  Felt like it had a "bubbling" as I put pressure on the blade to slice.   However, for a gouge cutter slide easily.  After a few minutes- I was able to carve easily with both tools.  I only carved a quick simple image with lines and angles.   

Definitely better than the pink stuff.  

Small Cross LTC

I was asked how I make contrast and why I use more white paper than others.

First off I use white card stock. Although I do add other papers to my work I enjoy the simplicity of working with white.  It also is easier to use up scrap papers.

The following card is all white except the blue/purple paper in the back.

Here is my finished work

Here is how I reached it:

I did not take a pic, but I spritz this piece too and added red ink to the sides with an ink pad.

A super quick carve on pink block.  

Stamped image

Using the same inked pad (I did not add any ink) I started on the side and spread it towards the middle.

Soaking up the left over spray.

This is very messy so I used pliers.

All 4 sides covered.

Dabbed a bit of red on.

Using a chalk dabbed to add just a tad bit of aqua blue.

Defining the sides

You can see the difference between the sides with and without the black. I usually do a dark on all the side so no white shows

Glued together.

Review of different carving blocks

I am in the process of reviewing carving blocks side by side.

Currently I have:  (I am only comparing blocks that can be purchased)

sweetloveqiner
OZ
NZ
Firm Cut

ordered:
 multicolored carving block
candy colored carving block
Large layed carving block.

I am looking for a few more possibilities  at this time.  I will review each one separately. 

Sharpening a knife with Slipstrop

When carving on either rubber or wood it is vital to use sharp tools.   When I am beginning any carving project I start with sharpening the tools I will be using.

This is a slipstrop.  You can purchase it from many hobby or craft stores.

Rub the yellow compound on the leather

Take your knife edge and place it on the yellow compound on the flat leather .  Pull the knife edge off.

You can see that the knife is pulled out of the shaft.  I find it easier to sharpen this blade when it is expanded  (This is a 16 gauge Hypodermic needle removed from its casing and placed in a pin vice.) 

Keep your angle of your blade correct.  When you pull the knife blade it will leave a gray mark.

You can move to eye level to make sure your angle is correct.

You will want to do this at least 20 times.

When you are done check your blade.  Be careful it is sharp.

I make sure the blade is where I want it and lower it back into the shaft.  Time to carve.

Acetone Transfer

Transferring an imag with acetone is pretty simple.

Start off with a bottle of acetone.  There are many brands.  You can find it at any home improvement store or hardware store.

Once you have your bottle you will need paper towels.  (You can use rags, but there can be danger in mixing chemicals in the washing machine). Paper towels are cheap and disposable. 

Gentle put your paper towel over your bottle and tip it.  

Here is a scrap piece of OZ material. 

I took my paper towel with acetone on it and rubbed it gently. (I did this twice- took take off the shiny layer)

You can see that the OZ is slightly wet, but not saturated.  It will dry within seconds.

Find your image.  I am using a pretty solid image so it shows up for a picture.

Lay your image upside down on the carving material.

Place your papertowel over the bottle and tip again.  The paper should be wet, but not dripping.

Dab your image lightly.  You will see the image through the paper clearly.  If you would like, gently lift one corner to double check.

Be careful not to leave the papertowel on the image too long!

If you look closely the upper part of the image is transfer very clearly, but the bottom is smeared with some bleeding.

If your paper sticks to the carving material. Dab it slightly and it will come up.

I took acetone and rubbed it on the transferred image.  It lightened it.  If you have very fine details in your image that seem hard to see, often this trick will help.

Happy carving!